Swedagon Pagoda: Myanmar Mecca

YANGON, MYANMAR- Thursday, February 18:
If one has been in Yangon long enough and travels with any of the Buddhist faithful anywhere close to Swedagon Paya (Pagoda) they realize its sacredness to the people of Myanmar. Within 200 yards of a taxi's approach to Swedagon, the driver will pay homage to it. He places his hands together in prayer on top of the steering wheel, bows his head briefly and whispers some words. Swedagon is the most revered Buddhist site in all of Myanmar.
Swedagon Pagoda is on a hill 190 ft. above sea level and on a platform covering 12 acres. The gigantic, gold-plated stupa (cone-like structure) rests on a plinthe (base) which is 21 ft above the main platform. The actual stupa rises 322 ft. above this base. The stupa is topped off with the hti or the multi-tiered golden umbrella.The vane at the top of the hti gold and silver plated. It has 1100 diamonds along with other precious stones. This is topped by a golden sphere containing 4351 diamonds. The main stupa is encircled by a myriad of stupa altars that face outward toward the main platform. There is a large pavilion or worship hall facing outward for each of the four directions. Each of these lead to an entrance hall with a series of multi-leveled roofs, each getting progressively smaller as it goes up. The golden trim on these roofs has reliefs with intricate designs. All around on the main platform are other smaller stupas and small pagodas in varying similar styles.
Archeologists say that the original Swedagon stupa was built sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries. Legend holds that it is 2500 years old. The stupa has had various forms over the years. It has had multiple layers and repairs due primarily to earthquake damage. Each year the stupa is regilded with thousands of one foot square gold plates. When I visited the first time upon arriving in Myanmar, the bell of the giant stupa was covered with bamboo scaffolding. Two and a half weeks later now, the scaffolding is gone and a new layer of gold plates adorn the stupa. It is nearing 5:30pm as the suns starts to set around Swedagon. This is one of the most popular times to visit. Tourists and locals with families wander around the main platform. The faithful bow before the stupa or participate in various rituals in the shrines around the base. As the sun sets, the floodlights directed at the stupa from all directions turn on. The small shrines encircling the stupa emit an eerie green glow from the florescent lamps inside. All the while an elder monk's mantra is broadcast throughout the temple grounds through large megaphone-like speakers. Each night Swedagon embodies the some of the most important values of Myanmar culture- family and reverence for the Buddha.